Topical Management of Oily Skin

With such a large segment of topical products being marketed for effects like “reducing facial shine,” “mattifying,” and “oil-control,” it is easy to appreciate how the experience of oily skin represents a common dermatological experience and concern. Extending beyond its association with acne vulgaris, there are many who report an oily skin type and seek approaches to reduce the appearance it imparts, such as facial “shine” or “greasiness.” Fortunately, several topical products can offer an efficient means of limiting excess sebum production and/or reduce its presence over the skin. This article will explore the role and selection of cleansers, toners, and moisturizers directed toward oil control, as well as specific cosmeceutical agents whose presence can be sought either within such topicals or as stand-alone topicals.

Skin: A Brief Review

To best appreciate the pending discussion surrounding the effects of topical agents for oil control, Table 1 provides a summary of key aspects relating to sebum production. It is important to keep in mind how—although we will explore ways to limit sebum levels—sebaceous glands play a key role in skin health, including the support of the epidermal skin barrier and innate immunity. ² As such, when discussing treatment goals with one’s patients, it may be better to relate this as a normalization of excess sebum production rather than providing an overt “antisebum” sentiment.

Table 1. A Review of Sebaceous Gland Physiology³ Primarily located over the face, upper chest, and backSebocytes disintegrate and release sebum through holocrine secretionComposition of sebum includes squalene, wax esters, cholesterol esters, free sterols, triglycerides, and free fatty acidsAndrogens are involved in the differentiation and proliferation of sebaceous glands and the production of sebumAverage rate of sebum production (adults): 1 mg/10 cm² every 3 hours; seborrhea/oily skin is represented by a rate of 1.5 mg/10 cm² every 3 hoursEnvironmental risk factors for seborrhea: Spring and summer seasons; humid environment

The Role and Selection of Skin Cleansers, Specialty Cleansers, and Moisturizers

In managing excess sebum, certain considerations can be paid toward types and characteristics of topicals used for both cleaning and moisturizing the skin. To best appreciate the forthcoming details surrounding these topicals, the reader is encouraged to review the author’s previous work on this site, entitled “Cleansers, Toners, and Moisturizers: Cosmetic Ingredients—Managing Acne.”

In relation to skin cleansers, they are essential for removing dirt, oil, sweat, and other skin secretions. ⁴ Although a case can be made toward the use of traditional, or “true,” soap products given their efficiency in removing skin oils, there is a potentially stronger point to be made in relation to the concern over how such strong cleansing products can strip away the oils found within the skin barrier, while negatively impacting the skin’s pH, together having a detrimental effect on skin health While traditional soap products efficiently remove skin oils, their strong cleansing properties can strip away natural oils and disrupt the skin's pH, potentially harming skin health.^5,6 This is particularly of concern for those with acne, since skin-barrier impairment is often experienced in that population. ^7,8 . As such, the use of either synthetic detergent (aka “syndet”) or lipid-free cleansers are more ideal given their ability to maintain skin pH while also preserving the integrity of the skin barrier.^9,10 Specific to oily-skin management, foaming cleansing products are reported to be a more efficient means of removing excess sebum.^11,12

Specialty cleansing products, which can include toners, micellar water, cleansing cloths, and blotting papers, can all be formulated to help remove excess oil. Alcohol-based toners are often used for oil removal post–facial cleansing and may contain an astringent agent such as witch hazel (genus Hamamelis). ^13,14 They are typically applied over the sebum-rich T‑zone areas of the face (i.e., forehead, between eyebrows, and nose), and can remove sebum missed by the initial cleanser. ¹⁵ Micellar water simultaneously acts as a very gentle cleanser, often based on nonionic surfactants, allowing for one to clean the skin without having to scrub, wash, or rinse the face. Given these features it is good for use on the go. It also doubles as a makeup remover, working best on nonheavy and nonwaterproof makeup. Embedded moisturizing agents can also impart a moisturization effect after use. The name comes from the surfactants forming ball-shaped micelles, with the lipophilic ends of the surfactants facing inwards, allowing them to float in the water, attract and bind to sebum, dirt, makeup, etc. Its formulation is typically suitable for all skin types, especially for sensitive skin, making it a great option for those dealing with both oily and sensitive skin. ¹⁶ As an alternate to a traditional facial cleanser, cleansing cloths often have surfactants embedded within them, can be dry or premoistened, and impart a physical exfoliation effect owing to their being rubbed over the skin surface. ¹⁷ Finally, blotting papers provide a means of reducing facial shine by being gently pressed into facial areas exhibiting excess oiliness. They also offer an ease of portability given how they resemble tissue paper and are often sold within an easy-to-carry container. ¹⁸

As for moisturizers, certain formulation features become important to consider when selecting those for use in oily skin. Principally, avoiding oil-based and heavy cream-based moisturizers in favour of lighter lotion or serum-based moisturizers is preferred. ¹⁹ In addition, those managing acne vulgaris will likely benefit further from the use of moisturizers containing the components needed for epidermal skin barrier support, such as ceramides, cholesterol, and sources of free fatty acids such as stearic acid. ^20,21

The Role and Selection of Cosmeceutical Active Ingredients

Whether they be embedded within any of the above-mentioned topicals or found as a stand-alone topical such as a serum, several cosmeceutical agents have shown benefit toward reducing excess sebum levels.

Niacinamide

Topical niacinamide has gained much interest for its effects on skin, including repairing the skin barrier, reducing hyperpigmentation, improving skin texture and wrinkling, and reducing skin redness. ²² Reduction in facial sebum is another noted effect which has garnered some study. A team reported on the effects of a 2% niacinamide gel explored in two separate studies, each with their own design.²³

One study involved a 4‑week, double-blind, placebo-controlled examination with 100 female Japanese participants. The second study, conducted in the United States, spanned 6 weeks and included 30 Caucasian subjects. This study utilized a randomized split-face design, where the topical containing the active ingredient was applied to one side of the face, while the other side remained untreated. The use of these two study designs was done purposefully. The authors cited how controversy persists regarding how best to design sebum-control trials—via placebo-control or split-face. The challenge is that the placebo-controlled approach has no way to assess what would have happened without treatment, while the split-face design risks cross-contamination from the treated to the untreated side of the face.

In the Japanese study, subjects were asked to apply their assigned product over the entire face twice daily. Assessments included the use of a sebumeter, which took measurements from the central forehead area, as well as sebutapes, which incorporate an image-analysis system using LEDs and computer software to calculate sebum production. For both studies, sebum excretion rates, or SER, were calculated using the difference between sebumeter readings taken immediately after cleaning the test area and again 90 minutes later. This provides a dynamic measure, given its evaluation of excretion rate. Additionally, casual sebum levels, or CSL, in the US study were measured. This is the level of skin surface sebum, essentially representing a resting or static-skin oiliness level measured before any cleansing.²⁴

Notable findings included: ²⁵

• (Japanese study): 2% niacinamide led to a significant reduction in the sebumeter-measured SER at both the 2‑ and 4‑week marks compared to placebo. Specifically, by week 2: 21.3% average SER reduction in active group v. 8.6% reduction in placebo group (p = 0.013); and by week 4: 21.8% average SER reduction in active group v. 10.7% reduction in placebo group (p = 0.027).
• (Japanese study): Sebutape-based evaluations of SER demonstrated a statistically significant reduction after four weeks for the active group as compared to placebo (p = 0.011).
• (US study) Researchers did not find a significant change to SER, although a trend toward its reduction was observed. CSL, however, was significantly lowered by the sixth week (p = 0.055).
• (US study) Blinded investigators assessing for skin oiliness and overall appearance between the two sides of the face noted significant reductions in facial oiliness by week 3 (p = 0.024) and week 6 (p = 0.0002), facial shine by week 6 (p = 0.009), and overall improvement to facial skin appearance by week 3 (p = 0.012) and week 6 (p = 0.00001).

The authors postulated that niacinamide may not necessarily reduce sebum production per se, but rather impact what is known as the “sebum reservoir.” This reservoir is created within the duct connecting the sebaceous gland to the skin surface and is believed to contribute to skin oiliness. Given niacinamide’s mild exfoliating effects on the ductal tissue, this is believed to promote sebum flow to the surface all the while depleting its levels within the reservoir. This eventually exhausts, and ultimately reduces, sebum flowing to the skin surface.²⁶

Green Tea and Lotus

Previous research has shown topical green-tea extract as a valuable adjunctive approach in managing acne vulgaris, with at least one meta-analysis finding benefit for reducing both inflammatory and noninflammatory acne lesions. Specific to sebum reduction, research has demonstrated a potential benefit as well.

An example of such work is a study involved a 60‑day trial with 22 healthy male subjects, conducted in a single-blinded, placebo-controlled manner. On one side of the face, participants applied either a 5% green-tea emulsion or a combination of 2.5% green tea with 2.5% lotus (Nelumbo nucifera) extract, which is believed to reduce sebum production by inhibiting 5‑alpha‑reductase. The placebo facial side received an application of a placebo vehicle. Measurements of casual sebum levels over the cheeks were assessed using a sebumeter at baseline and every 15 days throughout the study duration.

Significant findings included: ²⁸

• (Green-tea group) Significant decrease in sebum secretions from baseline to 60 days as compared to placebo (two-tailed p value = 0.0060), representing around a 27% decrease from baseline.
• (Green-tea + lotus-extract group) Significant reduction in sebum secretions from baseline to 60 days as compared to placebo (two-tailed p value = 0.0002), representing a 25% decrease from baseline.

Sebum-Controlling Agents Often included within topical products offering oil control is the use of sebum-controlling agents. Examples include methacrylate polymers, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, silica microbeads, and corn starch. ^29,30,31 Among the effects such agents may impart on the skin are a matte effect for a smooth and nonshiny skin appearance, and to retain and absorb sebum on the skin surface as a means of decreasing facial shine. ^32,33,34 The experience of excess sebum production can be a common skin concern for patients. The integration of various topical products formulations and cosmeceutical agents may provide an adjunctive benefit in the management of oily skin. Disclaimer: The information presented in this article is for general information purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Please first review with your personal health-care provider(s) what therapeutic approaches and products would be best for your case.